Myanmar: Yangon Downtown, Sule, and Shwedagon Pagoda
2018 was a year of traveling for me. I got to visit 4 new countries and this is the year I've completed my SEA bucket list. And to be honest, I didn't expect to visit Myanmar last 2018. For one, it doesn't have a direct flight from Manila, another reason is that it is not a popular destination among Filipinos. I got lucky because my father has Burmese friends from when he worked in Mae Sot last 2013. Mae Sot, by the way, is the Thai border of Thailand and the other side is Myawaddy which is the Myanmar border.
I was lucky enough to visit Mae Sot when we backpacked
Thailand last 2015 (Check out our experience here) but we didn't cross the
border to Myawaddy as my father said there was nothing to see on the other
side. So yup, I waited to this day we will visit Myanmar. HAHA! Just by
thinking about it makes me miss backpacking, I'm so glad I did it at such an
early age. Good old days. Not all are lucky enough to travel with their
fathers, let alone do backpacking in a foreign country. ;)
I got our tickets from
as usual *drum rolls* ~*Air Asia seat sale*~. Even though it is a seat sale, it
is by far the most expensive plane ticket I've bought. I'm already expecting it
as tickets to Myanmar aren't really cheap knowing there is no direct flight. We
had a 12hr layover in Kuala Lumpur on our way to Myanmar and an 11hr layover in
KL as well en route to Manila. How did we survive that long layover? That's for
another post! It's quite interesting though because even with that long
layover, never did once I got bored.
This is a 7-day
backpacking journey and boy it was not easy. You could say that this is the
hardest of them all but I am glad I survived and finally ticked it off on my
list. We visited the 4 major places in Myanmar. Our route is Yangon -> Bagan
-> Mandalay -> Inle Lake -> then back to Yangon. This means more
overnight buses and public toilets (my worst enemy, que horror) but all is
worth it because Myanmar is one beautiful country.
Myanmar, previously
known as Burma, was also once a colonized country. It was under Britain and
Japan before it finally got its independence. Very much like us, they also have
many ethnic groups such as Burman and Karen. And although I've been wanting to
visit this country for the longest time now, I really don't have any idea what
to expect in this country. I don't know how advanced they are but a friend of
mine once described it as "Manila in the 70s, 80s". I would
say he is right.
Old buildings in Yangon downtown
Sule Shangri-la
We arrived early in
the morning at Yangon International Airport. Remember my father used to
volunteer/work in Mae Sot before? He was a teacher for Burmese kids back then
and one of his students wanted to meet up with us and tour us around Yangon
when we arrived. We first bought sim cards and changed money. One thing to note
is that banks/money changers in Myanmar don't change Philippine Peso so if
you plan to visit Myanmar, it is better to bring US dollars. We took the bus
going to the city and alight near Shwedagon Pagoda, in front of Sule
Shangri-La. This is where I, my father, and his former student, Lin Ko, met.
Inside at one of their airport buses
He first accompanied
us inside Shangri-la to exchange money (the exchange rate at the airport is bad
so we just exchanged money for sim card and transportation going to the city).
I am an awkward kid so I just took photos of the city while they catch up
with each other. Haha. Lin Ko also accompanied us to a legit Burmese restaurant
with legit Burmese food. Okay, food. Let's talk about food.
Some of the Burmese food Lin Ko sampled for us
This isn't my first
time eating Burmese food because as I've said, we went to Mae Sot and there's a
restaurant there that sells Burmese food given that it is a border of Thailand
and Myanmar. My favorite Burmese food -- Lahpet-thoke, called Tea Leaf Salad
in English has a hint of salty taste because of the peanuts but is very
satisfying because of the fermented tea leaves. If there's one thing I could
eat every day in Myanmar, it is Lahpet-thoke. Burmese cuisine is mainly
influenced by its neighboring countries Thailand, India, and China so it's no surprise that most of their food has curry for its base.
I noticed is
that they like curry so much they have many variations. I am not sure though
why, but I was very meticulous at what I eat when we were in Myanmar. I tried
Mohinga on this restaurant Lin Ko recommended and it was really good! Aside from
Mohinga, Lahpet-thoke, and the food we ate at President Café in Mandalay,
there's no other local food that stuck with me. Maybe we just didn't go to the
right places for food. The food at President Cafe is Chinese-ish so its one type of food I really liked when went there.
Legit Lahpet-thoke - so good I brought home a ready-made from their supermarket
After eating, we went
to one of my father's friends place. It is actually a printing press. He
offered his place for us to drop our bags first before roaming around Yangon as
we don't have a hotel in Yangon for the day. We plan on going to Bagan via an overnight
bus that day so we have no plans in getting a hotel. See, that's the thing
about backpacking, you have to carefully plan your itinerary to maximize the
time. The good thing is that my father has friends in this part of the world that
it makes our traveling here much easier.
After dropping our
bags and some chitchat, we went to Shwedagon Pagoda. Burmese people are free of
charge when they enter temples in Yangon but foreigners are required to pay. We
tried blending in with the locals but it seems that they can differentiate me from the locals because my father can go inside but the guards are always calling my attention.
LOL.
It was raining during
our visit to Shwedagon but even though it is raining, the temple is still so
pretty. This is the most sacred Buddhist temple in all of Myanmar and it can be
seen from all over Yangon day and night because of its golden roof that illuminates.
One must remove their footwear upon entering the temple (same goes for all
temples in Myanmar). Since it was raining the time we visited, the floors are
kind of slippery. One interesting thing I came across here is that Burmese
Buddhist takes note of the time and day they were born. Each day is split by 2,
AM and PM, and there will be a certain Buddha for that where people can offer
flowers while pouring in water then people can make a wish.
We also visited Yangon National Museum that tackles the very historical Myanmar. What I liked the most is that they have an ASEAN section that shows different facts among different ASEAN countries. It's fun reading trivia about each country.
Entrance to Shwedagon
Here is Lin Ko with my father :)
We also visited Yangon National Museum that tackles the very historical Myanmar. What I liked the most is that they have an ASEAN section that shows different facts among different ASEAN countries. It's fun reading trivia about each country.
Myanmar is also the
most conservative country I've been to. Men and women wear longyi so their skin
is mostly covered. Even wearing shorts seems like not the norm here. Imagine
how much more strict they are when it comes to their temples. One must cover
knees and shoulders.
After Shwedagon, we
decided to roam around the public market to look for the good stuff that can pass
as souvenirs. There are good local coffee shops and small shops that sell
snacks. I got myself a cup of iced coffee while we munch on Lahpet-thoke.
After the afternoon
siesta at the local market, we headed to Sule Pagoda. If there are two temples
you need to visit in Yangon, it is Shwedagon and Sule. It is two of the biggest
and most visited. Before entering Sule, we met with my father's co-teacher and
one of his students also went to see him. That's one thing I admire with my
father, he always knows someone and he socializes very well. Probably one of his
traits that I wasn't able to get that I wish I did get. LOL. Didn't take photos in Sule so now I'm regretting I don't have memorabilia of that temple.
Sule Pagoda is much
smaller than Shwedagon but none the less, it is still pretty on its own. It is
located in Downtown Yangon and it was said to be over 2000 years old. It was
still raining so we waited a bit for the rain to stop. I remember having the need
to pee then since they don't allow slipper/footwear inside the temples, I have
no footwear entering the comfort room. And while I still cringe remembering that moment, I can't help but be proud of myself that I survived it. LOL. One thing
about the public CRs in Myanmar is that it all have bidets, at least for the
once I got to use. But still, going to the CR without footwear? Oh my.
As the afternoon
approaches, we went to a nearby tea shop. Had some tea and went to the printing
press to get our bags then off we go to the bus terminal going to Bagan. The funny thing was I left my umbrella in the grab taxi (yes, they do have grab but the cars
are old models, to be expected though) and Lin Ko was kind enough to contact the
driver so he was able to get the umbrella. I got it on our last day when we met
again after we explored Inle Lake. Thing is, I don't have an umbrella when
we're in Bagan, Mandalay, and Inle Lake. The weather was quite a bipolar pa naman
that time that it will suddenly rain then one minute, it gets sunny.
As for dinner, we just
ate at a small shop in the terminal. And that's how we explored Yangon on our
first day.
You can check my IG
story here during our visit to Myanmar so you could get a clearer view of what
Yangon is like.
The overnight bus, on the other hand, is nice. Just like the ones in
Thailand. Comfy and it has reclining seats. By the way, it was Lin Ko
who bought our overnight bus tickets to Bagan, we just paid him when we got the
ticket from him. We also secured a bus ticket from Ngauw Shwe (Inle Lake) going
to Yangon on our last night just so to be sure we won't have a hard time going
back on time.
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